A Look Back at 25 Years of Sheepskin

The UGG® Australia story began in 1978, when Brian Smith, a young surfer from Australia, took a trip to the United States with a bag full of sheepskin boots. After finding a new home amongst California surfers, the UGG® Australia brand began to take shape.

Deckers Outdoor Corporation acquired UGG® Australia in 1995. By 1998, the product line had grown to include two boots, four slippers and a few casuals. It was in 1998 that the critical repositioning of UGG® took place. The brand was positioned as a high-end luxury footwear brand, made evident by a premium distribution strategy and high-end fashion marketing and communications.

The luxury and comfort of UGG® Australia proved to be a perfect fit for the high-end footwear world and soon Nordstrom had become the destination for UGG® Australia. The media reach expanded into more and more high-end magazine titles. The business continued to grow steadily as the brand recognition increased. To that end, UGG® has had no better contributor than Oprah Winfrey.

In 2000, Oprah was sent a pair of Ultra boots. She loved the product so much, she purchased 350 pair for her entire staff. Oprah then featured the Ultra Boot on her well-known “Oprah’s Favorite Things” show.

3 years later, Oprah selected UGG® Australia for the second time. She featured the Baby Pink and Baby Blue Classic Boots. The show aired in November, and the boots immediately became the “must-have” item for holiday shoppers.

Lightning struck a third time in 2005, when Oprah featured the Uptown boot on “Oprah’s Favorite Things.” The results speak for themselves.Made of the finest quality plush twin-faced sheepskin to keep little feet warm and comfortable. The Baby UGG Boots – Infant Boo also features a reinforced heel and toe to keep feet protected. Elastic cord detailing on the back to make slipping on and off easy.

From humble beginnings to global success and notoriety, the UGG® story reads like a fairy tale. In 2003, UGG® was named Footwear News’ “Brand of the Year” and was responsible for the creation of an entirely new category of footwear. From then on, sheepskin footwear could be seen on the runways in Milan, Paris and New York; and it all began on the beach in Australia. The future is limitless for UGG® Australia, introducing product extensions and warm-weather footwear, all while maintaining the position as the world leader in luxury and comfort.


The history and design of UGG boots

Ugg boots are made from sheepskins with fleece attached. The fleece is tanned into the leather and the boot is assembled with the fleece on the inside. Ugg boots often have a synthetic sole, commonly made from Ethylene-vinyl acetate (or EVA) and the stitching is often prominent on the outside of the boot. The natural insulative properties of sheepskin gives thermostatic properties to the boots: the thick fleecy fibers on the inner part of the boots wick moisture and allow air to circulate, keeping the feet at body temperature. This property allows Ugg boots to keep feet warm in cold weather and cool in hot weather. The original design was a pull-on boot in natural (undyed) tan sheepskin, about 10 inches (25 cm) in height, with rounded, almost shapeless uppers; this is now described as the “classic” design. Produced by a number of manufacturers, they come in a variety of colours, including black, pink, blue, chestnut, and fuchsia. They are available in both pull-on and lace-up varieties and their height can range from just above the ankle to above the knee.

Some variations of ugg style boots have also been made from kangaroo fur and leather. There are also synthetic boots. Although derided as “fake” by some in the industry, their lower price made them appealing to large retail chains such as Myer.

In 2009 American podiatrist Ed Chairman raised concern that the regular wearing of ugg boots could be deleterious to foot health due to the lack of arch support.

The origins of the ugg boot style are disputed, with both Australia and New Zealand claiming to have been the origin of the footwear. Sheepskin boots were known in rural Australia during the 1920s. While it is not clear when manufacturing started, by 1933 sheepskin boots were being manufactured by Blue Mountains Ugg Boots, and Mortels Sheepskin Factory was making the boots from the late 1950s.

In regard to naming, it appears that ugg boots, ugh boots and ug boots have been used as descriptive terms for sheepskin boots in Australia and New Zealand since at least the 1960s,although individual accounts have suggested that the terms (or variations thereof) were employed earlier – for example, “fug boots” were worn by pilots during World War I. The 1970s saw the emergence of advertising using the names, but Brian Smith has stated that the boots were referred to as “uggs” long before the word was trademarked. Frank Mortel of Mortels Sheepskin Factory claims he named them “ugg boots” in 1958, when Mortels started production, after his wife commented that the first pair he made were “ugly.”

In the 1960s, ugg boots became a popular option for competitive surfers, who used the boots to keep their feet warm after exiting from the surf. Surfing helped popularise the boots outside Australia and New Zealand, when Brian Smith started selling the boots in the United States through the company Ugg Holdings, Inc. in 1979. Ugg Holdings was sold to Deckers Outdoor Corporation in 1995. Generally worn for warmth and comfort, ugg boots had never been considered fashionable, but in the late 1990s and early 2000s sheepskin boots emerged as a fashion trend in the US through Deckers’ promotions of the UGG brand, with celebrities such as Kate Hudson, Sarah Jessica Parker, Cameron Diaz, Leonardo DiCaprio and Jennifer Lopez wearing the boots, and with Oprah Winfrey featured UGG brand boots as one of her “Favorite Things” on her TV talk show. Deckers’ actions to promote their product “led to an exponential growth in the brand’s popularity and recognizability” with the company reporting close to a 50-fold increase in sales from 1995 to 2008.


The Ugg Australia

It’s thought that Australians were wearing some sort of sheepskin-lined footwear for decades (and that the term “ugg” evolved from “ugly boots”), but if you’re looking for someone to blame — or thank — for the U.S. invasion, consider Australian surfer Brian Smith, who started the Ugg Australia footwear company in 1978. Seeking to increase sales of his fur-lined boots, Smith came to the U.S. with about two dozen pairs of the footwear, selling them to California surfers and, eventually, to the Hollywood set.

The sheepskin is twin-faced, meaning that the wool is still attached to the suede during the construction and dying process. That makes the fur very porous. So, if you’ve always wanted to know why Angelenos wear sheepskin footwear with shorts in the summer, it’s because the material is naturally thermostatic. The boots will keep feet cool in 80-degree weather and warm when it’s 10 below. Breath-ability is key.

In 1995, Smith sold his company to the Goleta-based Deckers Outdoor Corp., which decided to expand from its basic “heritage” line to include a handful of new styles; a few years later, the company opted to reposition Ugg Australia as a luxury brand.

In the late 1990s, Deckers switched the primary focus of the footwear company to the international market. What started as a small enterprise to clad the feet of Australian surfers now seems intent on world domination. Or, at least, boot domination.

Looking back, it seems apparent that, as with most enterprises, there was a tipping point at which operations moved into warp drive. For Ugg Australia, that might have been in 2000, when Oprah Winfrey got a pair of Ultra boots. She liked them so much that she ordered 350 pairs for herself and her staff.

Then, in 2003, when the pink and blue Classic Shorts were featured on her “Favorite Things” holiday show, pandemonium ensued. (In 2007, that list included the company’s Classic Crochet Tall Boot.) Boots appeared on auction sites, selling for triple their retail value. Footwear News dubbed the label “Brand of the Year.” And Ugg managed to ensure that various starlets, who love to comb through the swag suites at film festivals and award shows, were photographed wearing their product.